Premium Engineered Wood Flooring

Engineered wood flooring

Engineered Wood Flooring is constructed from layers of timber glued together and finished with a top layer of hardwood, this normally being Oak. The top layer of wood can be sanded back and refinished several times. The engineered construction adds dimensional stability and strength, allowing the manufacture of longer and wider planks. Also, as engineered wood flooring is mostly found with a click system, this makes it quick and easy to install.

Explore our wide assortment of engineered wood flooring from Decka Plank, Jigsaw Click, Sherlock Oak and Wills & Ferguson.

Are there any alternatives to engineered wood flooring available?

We also stock a wide range of engineered parquet blocks, reclaimed wood flooring and a wide range of quality laminate flooring.

You can find us in b2blistings.org’s Construction Materials Directory

Flooring options for every taste and budget

At Oakley Products SW, we pride ourselves on providing a diverse range of flooring options to suit every taste and budget.

In addition to our engineered wood flooring selection, we also offer a wide range of engineered parquet blocks, reclaimed wood flooring, and quality laminate flooring.

Our engineered parquet blocks are a popular choice because they offer the look of solid wood flooring at a more affordable price, while also providing improved stability due to their multi-layered construction.

Our reclaimed wood flooring is a sustainable option that adds character and history to any space.

And, for those looking for a more budget-friendly option, our laminate flooring provides a durable and easy-to-maintain option that still looks great.

No matter what type of flooring you are looking for, our knowledgeable and friendly staff are here to help you find the perfect fit for your home or business. And, with our competitive pricing and installation services, we make it easy to get the quality flooring you deserve. 

How do I install my engineered wood flooring?

Before fitting any engineered wood flooring, you must allow 3-5 days for the floor to acclimatise as nature is in no hurry when it produces trees, and likewise, an impressive wood floor installation is never rushed. The sealed, unopened boxes should be laid flat, in the centre of the room for three to five days beforehand. DO NOT store the flooring outdoors, in an outbuilding, or anywhere with damp or condensation problems. The conditions where the flooring is acclimatised should be as close as possible to the typical living conditions.

Preparation of the subfloor is paramount, and all subfloors must be ideal before any engineered wood flooring is fitted. Wet trades like screeds, plastering and decorating need to be complete and the building must be thoroughly dried out. Windows and doors should be fitted and watertight. Following this rule will make the installation process much easier and increase the life of the product.

Tongue & groove or click fitting methods are available. Installation methods include floating over underlay or gluing direct to the subfloor using flexible adhesive.

THE FIRST ROW:

Before installation can begin a few calculations need to be made, and you might have to do some cutting before you can start laying. When you’ve chosen your starting wall, measure the width of the room from there and divide that by the width of the flooring panels. This will give you the number of rows of boards you’ll lay and the width of the last row. If your last row is going to be under 60mm wide, cut the boards in your first row lengthwise accordingly so that your last row isn’t too narrow.

Installation of floating engineered wood flooring (using underlay)

Oakley’s engineered wood flooring can be installed over concrete, anhydrite, existing wood floor chipboard, ceramic tiles, terrazzo, metal, PVC, linoleum, slate, marble, particleboard, OSB and plywood – but not carpet.

The type of underlay you need will depend on the subfloor condition. However, for most installations we recommend using an underlay with a built-in damp proof membrane, such as Serenity and Eco Gold Lay. See our full range at www.oakleyproductssw.co.uk.

Underlay should be laid edge-to-edge perpendicular to the direction of floorboards. Stick it together with tape. We do not recommend overlapping the underlay.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS TO INSTALL

1. Start installing along the longest wall or an outside wall which is likely to be straight and square with the room. Using one of the longest boards, install your first plank with the tongue facing away from the wall. Take great care with the alignment as misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps.
2. Use the remainder of the last plank in the first row to start the second row. If the off cut is less than 200mm in length, cut a longer piece for the first board in your second row. As you continue to install, make sure that all boards are staggered so there’s no less than a 300mm gap between joins in adjacent rows. This makes for a more appealing floor and reduces waste.
3. We recommend locking the header joints of each row together first so the floor can be installed row by row. If you need to install the planks separately, connect the long side of the board then use a block and mallet to tap the header joint into the next plank. Alternatively, you can connect the header joint with the previously installed plank, lift both to an angle of 30 degrees then slide into the long joint before locking into position.

Gluing Down (bonding wood flooring)

Oakley’s engineered wood flooring can be glued directly to concrete, ceramic tiles, terrazzo, metal, slate, marble, OSB or plywood. Ensure the existing surface is ‘rough’ or porous. Pre-sand any slick or sealed surfaces – gypsum and anhydrite screeds especially need to be abraded to remove the soft surface laitance. When gluing to concrete, we recommend using Wakol Ms Polymer to ensure a strong bond between the subfloor and adhesive. Designed specifically for our natural wood flooring, Wakol MS 260 adhesive will hold the floor after a short open time of 30 minutes but remain flexible to allow for the expansion and contraction of timber between seasons. It’s essential that there’s a full bond between each floorboard and the surface beneath.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS TO INSTALL

1. Start installing along the longest wall or an outside wall which is likely to be straight and square with the room. Spread adhesive from the wall to the width of 2 planks. Use a 3 or 4.8mm notched trowel, depending on the condition of the subfloor.
2. Using one of the longest boards, install your first plank with the tongue facing away from the wall, and secure into position. Take great care with the alignment as misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps.
3. Use the remainder of the last plank in the first row to start the second row. If the off cut is less than 200mm in length, cut a longer piece for the first board in your second row. As you continue to install, make sure that all boards are staggered so there’s no less than a 300mm gap between joins in adjacent rows. This makes for a more appealing floor and reduces waste.
4. Once you’re sure the first two rows are straight and secure, spread 700mm – 900mm of adhesive across the length of the room. Never spread more than can be covered in 30 minutes.

5. Allow the adhesive to cure for approximately 2 hours before permitting light foot traffic, and 24 hours before moving furniture onto the floor.

Related pages:

• Engineered Wood Flooring
• Reclaimed Wood Flooring
• Quality Laminate Flooring
• Reclaimed Floorboards
• Wood Flooring
• Reclaimed Cladding
• Hardwood Flooring
• Hardwood Floors
• Flooring in Cornwall
• Wooden Flooring
• Wide Plank Flooring
• Parquet Flooring
• Reclaimed Flooring
• Versailles Panels
• Free Flooring Samples
• Natural Wood Floors
• Oak Flooring
• Solid Oak Thresholds